What acids should I use on my face? 

Back when I started in Dermatology, acid use was very limited. Glycolic, salicylic and trichloroacetic acid were the mainstay of chemical peels.  Some early skin care lines were centered around glycolic acid, and salicylic acid was used to treat acne.  Boy have things exploded since then!  I’m feeling old when I realize that hyaluronic acid was just starting to hit our radar screens back then.  

Now, there is an expansive arsenal of skin care products that use a variety of “acids” leaving chemical peels in the dust.  

First, let’s discuss what it means for something to be an “acid”. Basic chemistry states that anything with a pH less than 7 is “acidic”.  However, many molecules can have an acid or base form.  There are tons of acids that we encounter every day, from citric acid in citrus fruit to acetic acid in vinegar.  In this introductory article we’ll discuss a few of the common “acids” used in dermatology, and we’ll focus on some of them in more detail in future articles. 

Alpha Hydroxy acids and Beta Hydroxy acids were the original acids used in skin care products and peels.  While there are many Alpha Hydroxy acids, glycolic acid and lactic acid are most commonly used in anti-aging skin care products.  Glycolic acid is commonly available in a variety of concentrations and products, but can be quite intense in both leave on formulations and peels.  Lactic acid is more forgiving and less potent. 

Of the products we recommend and sell in the Spring Boutique, ZO Skin Health’s Exfoliation Accelerator, containing glycolic and lactic, is a long-term favorite that is well tolerated by almost everyone. It is used daily as a moisturizer and provides for gentle yet potent daily exfoliation. ZO’s Enzymatic Peel is more potent and designed to be a once a week at home peel.  Several SkinBettter products contain glycolic and lactic acid, most notably their Intensive AlphaRet Overnight cream and their Peel Pads. 

The most common Beta Hydroxy acid in skin care products is Salicylic acid.  It is differentiated by being fat soluble, which means it penetrates into the pores well to help break down comedones.  While there are many OTC products with salicylic acid, many patients love the ZO Oil Control and ZO Complexion Renewal pads at the Spring Boutique.   

Hyaluronic acid is widely used in dermatology.  My first encounter with its use was in fillers, Restylane followed by Juvederm and others.  Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in the skin, eyes, joints and more.  It gives structure and provides lubrication.  By nature, it is hydroscopic, meaning it draws water to its self.  This has made hyaluronic acid a favorite in tons of skin care products over the past decade.  Hyaluronic acid molecules can vary in size.  Differing sizes impact how well they penetrate into the skin, if at all, and the size of the particles determine the result achieved when they are used as fillers. 

Hyaluronic acid holds moisture at the surface of the skin providing a dewy look to dry cracked skin. Unfortunately applying hyaluronic acid topically provides a more a temporary improvement in the skin, because the molecule does not usually penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin.  As acids go, it is not irritating at all and is tolerated by almost everyone.  It never hurts to add some hyaluronic acid to your skin care regimen but remember, it is providing a temporary superficial result only. 

Stay tuned for future posts where we discuss Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) and one of dermatology’s new hot topics Tranexamic acid and more.  Follow us on social and subscribe to our newsletter to make sure you don’t miss a thing.  

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