Many teens and adults are attracted to commercials for pore strips. The concept is both gross and satisfying for those who hate their blackheads. But, are they good for your skin? Do they really help? Let’s start at the beginning…
What are blackheads? The scientific name for a blackhead is an open comedone. A comedone is a dilated clogged pore. When the top of the pore is open to the air, the contents of the pore oxidize and appear black. When the top of the pore is closed, a closed comedone is what is commonly referred to as a white head.
Why do blackheads occur? Blackheads generally occur when pores become dilated due to age and hormones and “stuff” accumulates in them. What is the “stuff”? It is dead skin and sebum (oil) primarily but sometimes bacteria, yeast or mites called demodex also live in comedones.
Do pores “open and close”? Not really, and they certainly don’t open and close like doors. Using a pore strip to pull the stuff out of the pores does not make them magically close. Facials and products that claim to open your pores, cleanse your skin and then close the pores again, are far-fetched. It scientifically just doesn’t work that way.
How can you shrink your pores? Pores are held tight and given structure by collagen, elastin and other molecules that make up the structure of the skin. You can reduce the appearance of pores over time by building up the structure of the skin to support the pores so they are less dilated and less visible. Traditionally, dermatologists have recommended retinoids to achieve this. Now, there are some newer products that have been clinically proven to do this as well such as ZO Skin Health Pore Refiner.
But I hate my blackheads…should I use pore strips? I think most dermatologist, including myself would say no. Pore strips are in essence strong tape designed to stick to the top of the blackheads and pull them out. The result is empty dilated pores that will just fill right back up again. It might look better for a few days, but that’s about it.
So, what should I use to help reduce the appearance of blackheads? Glad you asked. As mentioned above, using a retinoid helps build up the structure of the skin, but it also helps to break down the contents of the blackhead to remove them. Other products that contain salicylic and glycolic acids can also help break down the contents of the blackhead but don’t have the added benefit of building up the structure of the skin. Just removing the contents without strengthening the dilated pores, leaves a less than desired appearance.
Here are my references in case you want to learn more.
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