Eye Creams
How can I fix these lines around and bags under my eyes? This is a pervasive cosmetic dermatology question. If you google “best eye cream,” it gets more confusing. I skimmed through dozens of these lists. Many do not include professional-grade products, and many are sponsored by the creams named in their “top” list. No wonder it is so hard to choose!
First, let’s talk about what causes aging related changes around the eyes.
Loss of elasticity and collagen – As we age and with sun damage, the collagen and elastin and other components of the deeper layer of the skin, the dermis breaks down, which leads to wrinkles and sagging skin.
Loss of fat and bone – Many studies have now shown that the structure of the face changes as we age. The orbit, the bony part of the skull, enlarges, and we lose fat in our cheeks. All these changes lead to undesirable changes and aging of the eye area. These changes can lead to a shadow in the under-eye area.
Bruise-like appearance – The bruise-like appearance under the eyes can be seen from a young age. It can be seen with swollen under eyes from allergies, lack of sleep, and more. The discoloration comes as blood leaks out of the blood vessels under the skin leading to a bruise-like appearance.
Now, consider what we are looking for in active ingredients
Hyaluronic acid- Hyaluronic acid is a normal, jelly-like component of the dermis. Adding it to eye creams allows intense moisturization. Applied topically, it gives a temporary improvement in dry appearance.
Caffeine – Caffeine is often found in eye creams and eye-rollers that are used in the morning. Caffeine causes constriction of the blood vessels under the eyes and decreases puffiness with about 30 minutes.
Ingredients that stimulate the growth of collagen and elastin- Generally referred to as peptides and growth factors, these ingredients stimulate the growth of collagen and elastin in the skin.
Defensins – Defensins trigger the growth of new epidermal skin cells.
Retinol – Although this type of Vitamin A is a commonly recommended ingredient for eye creams, it needs to be used with great caution. Retinol can only be used in very mild concentrations; otherwise, they cause extreme irritation of the eyes. Retinol stimulates collagen and elastin growth.
Vitamins – Vitamins C and E are the most common vitamins in eye creams. Stabilization of these antioxidants can be tricky, so penetration into the skin is often questionable.
Sunscreen – Zinc based sunscreen protects the skin from further sun damage.
Concealing ingredients- These can be pigments in varying colors and algae extracts that have light diffusing properties.
So, here are my favorites list, most of which we sell in the Spring Boutique.
DAYTIME
Colorescience Total Eye 3 in 1 This concealer contains zinc sunscreen, Hyaluronic acid, peptides and vitamin E. For a complete day and night regimen try the Total Eye Restore Regimen
Garnier Clearly Brighter Anti- Puff Eye Roller Although I am sure there are fancier and more expensive products, this drug store find with caffeine is the one I use when I am puffy in the morning.
DAY AND NIGHT
Alastin Eye Cream This is our newest eye cream in the Spring Boutique. Its unique blend of proprietary peptides causes intense stimulation of collagen and elastin in the dermis.
Defenage Eye Cream Another newcomer with their proprietary defensins that stimulate the growth of new healthy epidermal stem cells, this eye product also contains hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin E.
ZO Eye Brightening Cream ( formerly Hydrafirm) Contains retinol, caffeine and a number of other proprietary and natural ingredients to firm, hydrate and nourish the skin
ZO Intense Eye Cream Containing retinol, peptides, vitamin E, titanium, and several hydrating ingredients, this is the more intense of the Eye products.
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