Exfoliating 101
How often and how should I exfoliate my face?
Now that is a good question that doesn’t have a straight answer. But here it goes….
Why exfoliate your skin?
Exfoliating the skin removes dead epidermal skin cells, called the stratum corneum. Removal of these dead skin cells gives the skin a brighter, fresher look and reduces the likelihood of clogged pores. Exfoliation also helps other active skincare ingredients penetrate better. Not everyone needs to exfoliate extensively. For many, just washing daily with a washcloth or Clarisonic provides all the exfoliation needed.
Top ways to exfoliate the skin.
There are two main ways to exfoliate the skin- mechanically and chemically. (I know, chemicals sound bad, but stick with me). Mechanical/physical exfoliation uses a brush or something gritty to brush or polish away the dead skin cells physically. Even washing the skin with a washcloth allows some exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation generally uses an acid (Lactic, glycolic, mandelic, or salicylic acid) or urea to break down the superficial dead skin cells, causing them to slough off at the next washing.
How often to exfoliate the skin.
At least weekly but often daily. Why so much variation? The need for exfoliation varies with age, hormonal changes, and underlying skin conditions. The harshness and strength of the exfoliation and use of products containing retinoids may also alter exfoliation tolerance. My biggest advice is that exfoliation should never hurt! If your skin is still sore the day after exfoliation, back off on your exfoliation regimen.
Can I exfoliate too much?
Yes! A type of acne called “acne mechanica” is caused by over scrubbing the face. Also, patients with rosacea have to be gentle with exfoliating to avoid flaring their rosacea. For patients with vitiligo and melasma, any trauma to the skin can worsen the dyspigmentation.
What about microdermabrasion, chemical peels and dermaplaning?
I have already touched on these in previous posts. Microdermabrasion effects are very short-lived and expensive so I usually do not recommend it.
Top products we recommend to exfoliate the skin.
Physical or Mechanical:
Clarisonic Brush- I generally recommend these for acne-prone skin only with a mild cleanser. I do recommend the name brand brush. Unfortunately, Clarisonic went out of business in September of 2020. Luckily, another company called Current Body is continuing to manufacture and sell Clarisonic products. You can buy them here.
ZO Exfoliating Polish- This polish uses Ultra-fine magnesium crystals to Removs dead skin cells and improve skin texture.
Chemical:
ZO Enzymatic Peel– At-home chemical peel containing papain, bromelain, and glycolic acid to be used 1-2 times per week. To learn more about chemical peels, see our prior article.
ZO Advanced Radical Night Repair– This advanced retinol has exfoliation as a desired side effect and can even be used for an at-home peel.
ZO Rozatrol– This product marketed for rosacea also contains papain for gentle exfoliation to be applied each morning.
ZO Exfoliation Accelerator (formerly know as Exfoderm and Glycogent) uses glycolic and lactic acid as a daily part of your skincare regimen to be applied each morning.
Sulfur Rx Washes- If you have seen us for acne, rosacea, or seborrheic dermatitis, you know I am a huge fan of sulfur washes because they exfoliate and kill bacteria, yeast, fungus, and Demodex. Therefore, I usually do not recommend additional exfoliation for those using sulfur washes.
This article focuses on exfoliating the face but to learn more about the exfoliating in keratosis pilaris and exfoliating the feet, see our prior posts.
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