Dreaming of Summer 2.0- Laser Hair Removal

Get Smooth: Laser Hair Removal

Dreaming of summer or dreading it? Either way, for those with significant body hair, it’s time to start removing hair again. Ladies’ legs and armpits have been a little neglected over the winter, and men take a close look at their chest and back. If you are tired of being so tied to the shaving regime, maybe consider laser treatments as a way to get and stay smooth. We will also review other hair removal creams, but let’s start with laser hair removal or reduction.

Laser Hair Reduction. What is a LASER? A laser is a medical device that uses a focused beam of light to target specific structures in the skin. By definition, a laser has a single wavelength of light. The wavelength we use is a 1064nm NdYag laser, called the Cutera Xeo Cool Glide.

How does Laser Hair Removal Work? In laser hair removal, the laser light targets the pigment in the hair. In the skin, hairs are generated by and sit in hair follicles. The interaction between the laser and the pigment in the hair generates energy in the hair, best described as heat. This energy is transferred from the hair to the hair follicle. By damaging the hair follicle, we prevent that hair follicle from generating new hairs in the future. Over a few weeks after the laser treatment, the old hair is pushed out of the hair follicle. Once the old hair falls out, no new one grows back. Because the laser targets the actual hair, the hairs need to be present for the laser to work. You can shave prior to treatment, but we recommend no waxing or plucking for at least six weeks prior to treatment. Sounds great!

Why does it take multiple treatments? All hairs on the body progress through three major stages of growth: Anagen, catagen, and telogen. The anagen phase is the active growing phase, catagen is a short transition phase, and telogen is the resting phase. Only the anagen, actively growing hairs, are anchored well enough to the hair follicle to allow effective transfer of the laser energy. Therefore, the laser is only effective on the anagen hairs, which is why it takes multiple treatments. Treatments are scheduled 6-10 weeks apart, enough time to allow a new group of anagen hairs to grow. Each area can require six treatments to effectively remove the hair in a given area.

Is it really permanent? Yes, but treatment results may vary among patients. The FDA approves the Xeo Cutera 1064 NdYag CoolGlide Laser for Permanent Hair Reduction. The FDA defines permanent hair reduction as the long-term, stable reduction in the number of hairs re-growing after a treatment regimen. In clinical studies, patients were followed for one year after completing two treatments. The reduction in hair growth proved to be stable for that period of time. However, this is a new technology, and we have less than 15 years of long term data, so we can’t say 100% that the results will last forever. However, this does appear to be the case.

What if I am not a candidate for laser? What other choices do I have?

Electrolysis. Electrolysis works by inserting a needle into each hair follicle and delivering an electrical charge to destroy them one a time. Electrolysis often requires years of treatment at regular intervals and treats one hair at a time. It can, however, treat all kinds of hair.

Shaving, Tweezing, and Waxing. These methods involve mechanical destruction or removal of the actively growing hair. Many people believe that shaving causes the hair to grow in thicker and darker. This is a common misbelief. In fact, when we start shaving our legs in puberty or shaving our chin in menopause, our hormones are raging and changing leading to a massive conversion of vellus to terminal hairs. This conversion and growth of thicker darker hairs is related to our hormones, not shaving.

Hair Removal with Depilatories. Depilatories use a chemical called thioglycolate mixed with sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide to literally melt the hair away. Thioglycolate disrupts disulfide bonds, which are chemical bonds that hold skin and hair cells together. The major side effect of a depilatory is skin irritation because the chemical can melt away skin cells. A depilatory is applied to the area with unwanted hair and left on for 3 to 15 minutes. During this time, the chemical dissolves the hair and the resulting jelly-like substance is wiped or washed off after the appropriate time. The chemical should be tested first on a small skin area at least 48 hours before applying it to a large area. Applying a hydrocortisone cream after hair removal may help decrease irritation. I have tried various depilatory creams. I have found Surgicream to be the most gentle and well-tolerated for the face.

Vaniqa is a prescription-only topical cream that has been FDA-approved for reducing and inhibiting the growth of unwanted facial hair. The active ingredient is eflornithine hydrochloride, which has been used to treat African sleeping sickness and certain cancers. Vaniqa works by inhibiting an enzyme that is needed for cell reproduction and other cell functions necessary for hair growth. Vaniqa is applied twice a day to areas of unwanted facial hair. Noticeable results are usually observed after 4-8 weeks of therapy. The application must be continued for as long as inhibition of hair growth is desired. Vaniqa continues to reduce facial hair growth for up to eight weeks after discontinuing treatment. Vaniqa works on both terminal and vellus hairs. Vaniqa is usually not covered by insurance and costs about one dollar a day for use for the face. Recently many doctors are recommending the use of Vaniqa as an adjunct to other hair removal methods, including laser hair removal.

This is our GET READY FOR SUMMER GUIDE 2.0. We are updating and re-publishing dermatology tips on how to get yourself ready for summer! In the weeks leading up to Memorial Day, we will have weekly tips to help get our skin and body ready for summer.  Stop just dreaming about summer and start getting ready!